Monday, October 12, 2009

¡Bienvenidios Panama! - Part II



We
called the Resort Decameron our 'center of operations' for our trip. My friend's aunt and uncle owned a vacation property within the resort and were exceptionally generous in offering us a place to stay and feeding us periodically during our 10 day adventure. Located in Farrion, a small coastal town on the central Pacific side of the country, Decameron resort was built near the center of Manuel Norega's operation while he was in power. There were artillery bunkers scattered about the lush landscaping and luxurious homes on the golf course. Just down the road, the main highway of Panama transected the derelict personal runway of Norega.

Our previous night in Gamboa had been a fun adventure - I'll admit it took me a bit to adjust to the sounds of the jungle at night, but quickly I found myself right at home with all the rustlings in the dark, the leaf cutter ant highways, and distant calls of unknown creatures. We trekked for what seemed to be 2 or so miles round trip through the forest, looking for any wildlife that we might encounter - especially snakes. Searching, searching, searching - nothing. We did happen to spy a kinkajou navigating the treetops with the aid of my LED mag lite. On our way out, we did happen across one ground dwelling frog, uniform and dull in color, unappealing to capture in a photograph (after all the travel that day + hiking in the humidity, my greatest priority was finding a place to sleep).

Daylight comes quite early in Panama - by 6:30AM everything is lit with a golden hue from the sun rising up over the Caribbean Sea. My counterpart had been in touch with a local friend and guide, Mario, prior to our arrival. Mario runs a local serpentarium in El Valle, leads various outings in search of birds, reptiles and other critters for tourists. He is a frequent visitor to local schools to talk with children about the snakes of Panama and why they are beneficial creatures. In Panama, many locals believe that if they kill a snake, they will survive their next snakebite encounter. The usual attention snakes receive in local villages is mutilation by the blade.

After finding out Mario's schedule for the week, our plans shift and we decide to sort our gear and head northwest to the province of Bocas del Toro (mainland) and the mountains around Changuinola. Mario explains we have the opportunity to encounter Central American bushmasters (Lachesis stenophrys), coral snakes, pit vipers, and a bounty of amphibian diversity. With a quick stop in El Valle, we set out on the Pan-American Highway on a 14 hour drive....

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